The small groups of touristas looked on us quizzically as we walked past them, bearing bags stuffed with full snorkeling gear, dive lights and other trappings, only to scale the rightmost cliff and disappear amongst the seagrapes.
Our somewhat worn path brought us across these wide, rough fossil cliffs and to vantage points seldom enjoyed by mere visitors. But good views were not the order of the day; not while there were other underwater caves to explore.
A steep descent brought us into a wide and deep depression into the interior of the cliffs, where we found a deep cavern filled with water. The still water, along with the presence of floating sediment, indicated that this water cave was all but isolated from the outside sea.
The shadowed, yet crystal-clear water, with a floating layer of scum and an icy temperature, made some reluctant to enter. Again, it was myself who stripped to my suit, donned my newly-purchased mask and entered first. I was pleased to notice that the cold water settled at the top, and that the hour of the day cast a perfect beacon of sun into the cave's deep recesses.
After swimming beneath stalactites, I arrived at the rear of the cave, took a few breaths in preparation and dove into the darkness. The first ten feet consisted of perfectly stratified layers of sediment, blocking everything from view. Deeper still, and an underwater room opened, far deeper and wider than could have been imagined from the surface.
I brought myself slowly to the bottom, some 25 feet deep. The sunlight expanded to fill this great chamber, which, for the clarity and stillness of the water, made it seem like an air-filled cavern. The walls had the familiar pipe-organ appearance of any cave, and I was pleased to see a shortage of sealife beyond huge albino crabs.
The unusual density of this water made it difficult to sink, and wrecked havoc on my ears, eyes and sinuses. I could not remain below for the duration I hoped. By the time I surfaced, the others had joined me in this cavernous pool, and I could hear their complaints about the water temperature and contents.
We managed several dozen descents, each diver thrilled with what resided beneath the dark surface. The dive light was employed to explore other secluded nooks of the cave after sunlight finally moved beyond the bowl-shaped setting. Nearly an hour was spent in this way, before we returned to the surface world, and back to Navio beach.
During the trek across the cliffs, a few of us, led again by me, decided on a faster route off of the cliffs. I managed a well-timed backflip with a few twists into a passing wave, and the others followed close behind. We emerged onto the beach as the triumphant adventurers we were.
We celebrated our discoveries, as well as Damien and Federico's decision to remain another day, over Margaritas at Roy's. The swimming, surfing and hiking had worked wonders for our appetites, so it was only fitting that we properly feast ourselves. It was onward to Island Steakhouse for sunset and all-we-could-eat (and then some) barbecue. Buen provecho!
During our meal, we had the good fortune to meet with Lawrence, and introduce the new friends to the group. We found our way to Isabel II and his home, where we told tales and drank Noni juice. Our night was yet to begin, so we parted company and drove to Esperanza.
